Cabins: A Guide to Building Your Own Nature Retreat Book
SKU: 093735
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Comprehensive guide to building your own log cabin or nature retreat getaway.
Description
Description
Do you dream of a log cabin? A lakeside view? An A-frame retreat? Cabin-building manual includes everything you need to know about building your own getaway.

Product Highlights
- Stiles
- 11" x 8-1/2"
- 240 pp.
Details
Contents
Foreword
Introduction Chapter One - Cabin Planning Chapter Two - Types of Cabin Construction
Pole Built Cabins
Stick Built Cabins
Post and Beam Cabins
Stone Cabins
Cordwood Cabins
Wood Siding Chapter Three - Cabin Construction
Hand Cart
Site Preparation
Foundations
Windows and Doors
Ladders and Stairs
Insulation and Roofing
Electricity
Water
Plumbing & Sanitary Systems
Heating Chapter Four - Log Cabins
Log Joints
Cutting Your Own Logs
Working with Logs
Two-Bedroom Log Cabin Chapter Five - Cabin Designs
Helen's Writing Cabin
Pyramid Cabin
A-Frame Cabin
Pole Built Cabin
Timber-Framed Guest Cabin
Lakeside Cabin
Japanese Moongazing Cabin
Mediterranean Cabin Chapter Six - Outfitting a Cabin
Classic Cabin Accessories
Protecting Your Cabin Bibliography
Sources
Index
Notes Excerpt from page 120 Chinking
If you are building a log cabin you will need to provide some caulking or chinking between the logs to make them air tight and to keep out bugs and mosquitoes. How much caulking or chinking you will need depends on the amount of space there is between the logs. For instance the Swedish cope and some of the milled log types of log construction will require only a couple of thin beads of caulking applied with a caulking gun. On the other hand some hand-hewn log cabins may have 4" spaces between the logs then requiring major chinking. Early log cabin builders used moss stuffed in-between the logs. This help up pretty well since it was flexible and compressed as the logs settled. A modern-day alternative is a 6" wide Fiberglas sill sealer sold commercially at most building supply yards and used extensively to build houses. This is a good choice if you are using unseasoned logs as they will undoubtedly settle and shrink over the first two to three years at which time you can apply a permanent type of chinking.
Foreword
Introduction Chapter One - Cabin Planning Chapter Two - Types of Cabin Construction
Pole Built Cabins
Stick Built Cabins
Post and Beam Cabins
Stone Cabins
Cordwood Cabins
Wood Siding Chapter Three - Cabin Construction
Hand Cart
Site Preparation
Foundations
Windows and Doors
Ladders and Stairs
Insulation and Roofing
Electricity
Water
Plumbing & Sanitary Systems
Heating Chapter Four - Log Cabins
Log Joints
Cutting Your Own Logs
Working with Logs
Two-Bedroom Log Cabin Chapter Five - Cabin Designs
Helen's Writing Cabin
Pyramid Cabin
A-Frame Cabin
Pole Built Cabin
Timber-Framed Guest Cabin
Lakeside Cabin
Japanese Moongazing Cabin
Mediterranean Cabin Chapter Six - Outfitting a Cabin
Classic Cabin Accessories
Protecting Your Cabin Bibliography
Sources
Index
Notes Excerpt from page 120 Chinking
If you are building a log cabin you will need to provide some caulking or chinking between the logs to make them air tight and to keep out bugs and mosquitoes. How much caulking or chinking you will need depends on the amount of space there is between the logs. For instance the Swedish cope and some of the milled log types of log construction will require only a couple of thin beads of caulking applied with a caulking gun. On the other hand some hand-hewn log cabins may have 4" spaces between the logs then requiring major chinking. Early log cabin builders used moss stuffed in-between the logs. This help up pretty well since it was flexible and compressed as the logs settled. A modern-day alternative is a 6" wide Fiberglas sill sealer sold commercially at most building supply yards and used extensively to build houses. This is a good choice if you are using unseasoned logs as they will undoubtedly settle and shrink over the first two to three years at which time you can apply a permanent type of chinking.
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